Our Puerto Rico trip started with local eateries and chilling by the pool, then kicked into high gear Day 2 with a family waterfall hike in El Yunque rainforest. That’s typically how we roll — a vacation that ebbs and flows .. one day relaxing, the next day venturing out. There are all sorts of personalities at play, and following this sort of rhythm = least amount of fighting most possible enjoyment. It also paces the budget — downtime is free, or at least built into the cost of the accommodations.

A Guide or Not?

That said, our El Yunque outing didn’t cost much at all because it’s a national park! It could have, though — private hiking tours are available, and they can cost hundreds for a family of five. We weren’t planning to go deep into the interior, and if we were, I absolutely would have sprung for a guide. During my college years, a hike through a Guadaloupe rainforest taught me how swiftly a flash flood gets scary! However, I did want my kids to be able to stand in a waterfall like I had, (and El Yunque had gotten scrapped during that college trip … so it felt like unfinished business). Blessedly, wading into a cascade can be done on a short hike from one of the El Yunque’s main roads!

Setting Out

But I’m getting a little ahead of myself. As I mentioned, El Yunque is a national park — the only one with a tropical rainforest! There is lots to see and learn at El Portal — the park’s visitor center near the Rio Grande/Route 191/La Mina entrance (Adults $8; Children under 15 FREE). In 2022, it reopened (after Hurricanes Maria and Irma had had their way with it), and it’s STUNNING:

Only to be outdone by the view:

Inside you’ll find open-air interactive exhibits about climate, topography, and the flora and fauna calling this rainforest home. The most conspicuous of these is PR’s precious coqui frog — only seen and heard here. (Their chorus of chirping is the sound of the night, and though loud, it’s surprisingly calming). Inside El Portal, you can also get a broad overview of the hiking trails available. Even with the help of the rangers, it seemed overwhelming. I was glad I’d done some reading in advance, and determined we’d stick close to the popular main road after we entered the park.

W(h)et Your Whistle

That choice paid off seconds beyond the main gate, when we rolled up on La Coca Falls.

We eased by to take it in, then made our first parking stop a little further along at Yohaku Tower. As you ascend its spiral staircase, you’ll see four types of forest, and all the way to the Virgin Islands on a clear day!

This stop doesn’t take long — maybe 10 minutes, which is great for the ticking time bomb that is a kid’s attention span.

Family Waterfall Hike

Next, we were on to the main attraction — Juan Diego Creek. Parking is limited, but you’ll find something. We had to walk a bit. You’re also supposed to keep it to 30 minutes so others have a chance to enjoy it, too.

This tropical creek has tiered waterfalls, the lower two of which are small and easily accessible from the path.

The third is more hidden, fantastic and worth the trouble of getting to. Ideally, you’ll have water shoes (we only had sneakers) because the short trek is muddy, root-riddled, steep, and hard to follow.

We were making headway in the wrong direction behind our overeager 11-year-old before my instincts kicked in (where is everybody?). We reversed course, and five minutes later we arrived on the idyllic scene.

Several families were enjoying the cascading water and posing for pictures. We carefully made our way across the wet rocks, only for me to bite it on the final step. After an embarrassing full minute lying there with strangers asking if I was ok, I righted myself, and went about making sure my kids got that dreamy moment under a waterfall.

A heads up — the pool bed is rocky and the water is chilly. But who cares, right? 😉 It was the winning moment of the whole trip for my middle one. I’ll sustain a shoulder injury for that!

Up next … Old San Juan, El Morro, Semi-pro baseball games & where to sample a native natural elixir called Mavi/Mauby!